"dunce I started and ended by the difficulty love "is what Jean Sulpice said during an interview with the Express . And the difficulty starts with the kitchen of Marc Veyrat in 18 years against the Man in Black and pianos of my father's farm in Megeve. He teaches courses in cooking especially in my favorite restaurant to date, The Arnsbourg of Jean-Georges Klein, house in the woods from Alsace, there still omni present in nature in the shade of pine trees. Suffice to say that in attitude, we will find that attachment to nature with the highlighting of flavors and products premises.
But to complicate this story kitchen that is simple, he will perform at 2 300 m from the cottage The Oxalys in Val-Thorens, where he will get a first and one second Michelin star. Highest and young star in France and probably the world ... and only on the slopes before and after cooking.
Annecy / Val Thorens, 2:10 drive, it runs along the lake with turquoise waters before diving to Albertville and the valley of the Tarentaise, Moutiers and the long climb to St Martin de Belleville baroque churches, Les Menuires and Val Thorens last. 23 ° C initially, 14 ° C upon arrival, nearly 1 850m in altitude and impossible to have lunch on the terrace, to expect too cloudy to warm in the sun.
We choose the menu at 80 euros (3 menus to choose 49, 80 and 110 euros). During our reflection on our choice of dishes we are served by small tarts sanded Parmesan and raw peas, mint and orange zest which found the recipe in the book of John Altitude 2300 I had not brought with me and he certainly would have autographed. I love this book and these little tarts crispy.
The room is simple, wooden tables, orange and green flowers "alpine" (there is no pasture at this altitude but you can not decently say wildflowers). Magali's wife Jean and also sommelier establishment, officiates in the classroom and offers us the wine list. As I drive and the road is winding, I chose a glass of Gerin Condrieu La Loye 2008 field already tasted in Sa-Na-Qua in Honfleur, and Mom chose a wine from the pink and white unfortunately I did not notice the reference.
Appetizer: bean pie, crawfish and sage, eggs scrambled with mushrooms, pea mousse and raspberry puree, and tomato water with savory . The tart and eggs especially we pack.
For starters, a liver gras to the elder flower, yellow peaches and white balsamic vinegar. Just perfect, a bit too dark but not burnt taste fortunately. Perfect agreement with the sugar and fishing soft white balsamic vinegar. In keeping with my glass of Condrieu. My mother found his wine a little too sweet for this dish.
Fish to follow: From
small lake perch fillets cooked in a unilateral, creamy pistachio, lemon juice ginger to wriggle fish. Very nice presentation, but it's good not totally overwhelming. The emulsion lack of pep for me.
Mom took blue lobster, glazed in a honey vinaigrette acaccia of Savoy with butter, white cabbage and greens. hearty dish with cooking clean and visually very beautiful.
Meat: The pigeon (3 beautiful pieces and thigh), stewed sweet onions, purple basil, beet juice and cassis. Special mention to me in the sweet onion compote, all fine. I hope the recipe will in his next book comes out in the fall at a reasonable price.
Cheese Platters: Only Savoie cheeses for me but below that of Guy Martin Grand Vefour or Alain Périllat the atmosphere. I discovered Persillé Tignes I did not know and a dry goat cheese absolutely divine.
No pre-dessert (strange for a restaurant of this quality) and the desserts arrive. To tell you the truth we did not like desserts. We found that they lacked delicacies and delight. The Essert of all chocolate powder, chocolate ganache and Tansy sorbet, crunchy Maldon salt . I did not like the taste of this particular plant that is a component of the Benedictine and covering the sweetness of chocolate.
Another Strawberry Dessert included a light muslin hops tile country bread toasted. No luck for me that does not like hops, but my mother did not like the muslin and found a little jelly to taste. This dessert was very little sugar and might have deserved slices toast very thin but a little more caramelized to bring greed and counteract the bitterness of hops.
But we rarely admit that I like desserts in restaurants because I love above all starred the great classics that are found more in the gastro pubs (I damn myself for baba rum for example).
However the ball at the heart of chocolate that melts Chartreuse Chartreuse burning brought us some comfort with the coffee, but other small sweets were also welcome ...
A good meal, a little below what I had imagined, and under this category of restaurant. It lacks a bit of generosity and greed, no pre-entry, before dessert, no sweets. At the Grand Vefour, two stars and also for a price equal to the lunch, there are more things to test between flat and a slice of sponge cake served with coffee in addition to sweets. We feel the restraint and I wanted more of an explosion. But difficult to judge in one visit.
For a lower price, Atmospheres Alain Perillat is more surprising and bold. So ideally when you go skiing: ** Oxalys dine during the week starting afresh and make a stop at Le Bourget du Lac (near Chambery) in atmospheres *.
They are still our gifted little Savoyards, and not in the kitchen, is not it Christophe Lemaitre!
PS: For more info on the restaurant and internships, have a look at the site of Mercotte faithful ambassador heads Savoy.
Finally, I count on you to vote for my pound cake matcha chocolates (KKVKVK 35) in Red Raspberry
Finally, I count on you to vote for my pound cake matcha chocolates (KKVKVK 35) in Red Raspberry
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