Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Is High School Wrestling Gay

small chicken dumplings with saffron - The paradox of Dairy * at Lambeth.



Back from northern France and Belgium, where we made our little trip almost biannual Flemish restaurants and exhibitions. I will talk about soon in a full post Kobe Desramault, young chief of In de Wulf in Belgium. We waited a long time before we get there but the discovery has been rapid and a very large restaurant. Saturday between two exhibitions at Lille, we had lunch at La Laiterie * in the suburbs of Lille to Lambeth I will discuss later.





I have not cooked the weekend, I opportunity to mail you a recipe made a few days ago. I like to test different broths to cook food. but I was not excited about cooking dumplings in a saffron broth. The recipe is for those dumplings. This is the first time I was doing "house" and I thought it was very complicated. The hardest part is actually the good season. The rest is pretty easy. My grandmother had learned to cook in Lyon, we prepared traditionally veal dumplings on Sunday evening: poached in tomato sauce with mushrooms: my madeleine of Proust.



Small chicken dumplings with saffron
Ingredients 16 small dumplings or 8 medium:
50 cl of chicken stock (broth Ariake)
few saffron threads 2 slices of
chicken medium
1 pinch nutmeg 2 eggs


80g butter 25 cl of milk 150 g flour


Heat your chicken stock with saffron. Dip chicken cutlets in the broth and cook over medium heat for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, remove them from the broth. Set aside the broth, you used to poach the dumplings. Chop the chicken breasts in the blender. Salt and pepper your dumplings. Feel free to try to correct the seasoning. Book mango flesh.
In a saucepan, add milk and butter cut into cubes with a dash of grated nutmeg, salt and pepper. Heat gently. When butter is melted, add flour all at once and stir well to make a paste that you will dry out for 5 minutes over low heat, stirring constantly.
Cut the heat and add one whole egg. Stir well. When the egg is absorbed, add the second and do the same operation. Then add the flesh Chicken mixed. Mix well. you get a thick paste that will be easy to work. Let everything cool for an hour.
Make your dumplings by taking a portion of dough: the equivalent of a tablespoon bulging. Fashion-shaped dumpling by rolling with the palms of the hands. You can make 16 small dumplings or 8 dumplings averages.
Reheat the broth and saffron. When it is hot (not boiling), poach your dumplings. They will swell and rise to the surface (they must cook for about 10-12 minutes). Serve hot with the broth.

The dumplings were good. However I was not convinced by the saffron broth that does not value the dumpling. If you try this recipe, tell me what you think is missing.
This recipe comes from the Book: A NCOME Chicken and Other Stories Laurence and Gilles Laurendon Marabout.


The paradox of La Laiterie *

Benoit Bernard is a leader in dreadlocks, globe-trotter, epicurean and big mouth. A real mouth.
Vif, it does not hide his opinions on everything: life, Paris, the food and wine. He shares with us at the table, comes and goes as an idea crossed her mind. He tells us that there was Simon Francis last week in his restaurant and that was the worst table. He does not like blogs that find it too fast and then asked our opinion on wines nature.
It would overturn the codes of the kitchen but ultimately his soul is so in love with products including fish and truffle he does not bully with aggressive associations. His motto in the kitchen "good products, a great attitude and a good cook"
2 or 3 flavors maximum flat complex because it does not flat, it simplifies it. The presentation is very traditional, firings impeccable. The dishes are all very balanced with the exception of dessert that disappoint us. Bourgeois clientele mostly Lille. We are in the anti neo-bistro, which twists in all directions looking for the ingredients and associations wildest. The staff is perfect and effective.

Eventually the ogre is scary but its dishes ... looking for reassurance paradox.

We started with four appetizers: small croque monsieur golden welsch rarebit, a succulent morsel of tuna with 5 spices and parmesan cheese and cream regatonis Burgundy truffle .





We went into the thick of things with input a poached egg in an emulsion with artichokes, diced artichokes and truffle . Very good dish without taking risks but perfectly executed with a gravy that enhances the flavors.




To accompany the appetizers and the entrance, a wine from the Rhone Valley, a St. Peray 2009, potters in Guilleron a bold wine with notes of white flowers. In

we had a flat bar skin gently with a croutillante cream of chervil and parsley juice . On the bar, a delicious pannequet chard stuffed baked oyster with lemon confit . Like the bar like that. Full-bodied natural home Didier Arena Patrimonio to accompany fish.



Cheese is considered a flat. A half Stillton is served centerpiece.




What a joy to cut thin slices to eat with excellent homemade breads: country, grain, baguette or olive oil. We also choose the cheese plate with a nice selection of cheeses from North and sheep. Red wine glass bottle with this surprising. No opinion because I have not tasted.



In pre-dessert, a pink jelly lychees, fresh and delicate. But why this paper doily beating down everything?






We were disappointed by the dessert. A diced tropical fruit served with a pineapple sorbet, mango coulis and coconut macaroons . No originality, a little too sweet. The sorbet would have sufficed.



This menu is 4-flavor to 68 euros without wine and coffee. A menu that if consensus is not the most original (thereby pleasing both business lunches, family gathering that) is perfectly executed.

Laiterie *

138, avenue de l'hippodrome

59 130 - Lambeth

as: 03 20 92 79 73

The surprises we have the next day at In Wulf.

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