We know of advance that there are places that disappoint us ever.
Third meals to I'Arnsbourg for me in 4 years (some of my buddies are even two or three courses per year) ... it becomes a bit of a ritual: TGV Paris-Metz, minibus Baerenthal with stop in St. Louis. Arrival around 13h for a moment of magic. Back in Paris the same evening, sated and happy.
We found the whole team happy to Yoshiko Cathy, Chris, Patrick, Nasser. Always the same spirit that is found nowhere else smile and availability, impeccable service that is relaxed but chic.
It announced the departure of Jean-Georges Klein for several months, which is the chief of the greatest admiration. Ferran Adria in the preface to the book by Jean-Georges, who just released Alchemy elements wrote: "I the part of the few people who come to El Bulli to learn theory, but that ultimately, we learn to turn our . Enough said. Nothing in this classic kitchen, everything is suggestion and magic.
We found the whole team happy to Yoshiko Cathy, Chris, Patrick, Nasser. Always the same spirit that is found nowhere else smile and availability, impeccable service that is relaxed but chic.
It announced the departure of Jean-Georges Klein for several months, which is the chief of the greatest admiration. Ferran Adria in the preface to the book by Jean-Georges, who just released Alchemy elements wrote: "I the part of the few people who come to El Bulli to learn theory, but that ultimately, we learn to turn our . Enough said. Nothing in this classic kitchen, everything is suggestion and magic.
We were 11, the wine list is great but seem related to the number of people it allows to sample without excess in all wines. A big thank you to Yoshiko Takayama, Japanese sommelier of the restaurant for 5 years for these valuable advice and outstanding work.
There was once a whole family of appetizers ...
- Madeleine cauliflower cream and caviar Herring
- Macaron virtual fig, pigeon liver mousse
- Cashews texture (creamy cashew-coated sugar mannitol)
- Crisp County (county water dried gel)
- In a spoon: whiskey mousse, passion fruit sorbet, oil and grated nutmeg
They were quickly eaten accompanied by a glass of Champagne Billecart Salmon Rosé . In the family
Appetizers arrive then Egg Gold: a yellow and white with the same consistency with a yuzu mousse, pumpkin seeds, squash and caramelized pumpkin seed oil.
declination and orange vegetables Automme . All served with a Riesling Cuvee des Comtes Eguisheim Leon Beyer Alsace 2003 the pretty golden color.
Let's do a little focus on this variation of orange vegetables:
- In the Horn of carrot are: a tartare of mackerel (chives, shallot and olive oil) double cream and julienne carrots tart
- In the plate: pumpkin noodles assaissonnée (sesame oil and soy sauce), s Alade shells and knives with Pak Soi onions spring onion and fresh wasabi confit, scallops and cashew nuts, jelly cashew and ponzu, coriander cress.
- In the glass: a sublime yoghurt mousse, lemon oil and sweet potato sorbet where I had a very big favorite.
It would not be without Arnsbourg into the famous oyster graduation this time served with quince gel, foam, lime and grapefruit sorbet . It is divine as usual. gel quince is particularly interesting.
They were quickly eaten accompanied by a glass of Champagne Billecart Salmon Rosé . In the family
Appetizers arrive then Egg Gold: a yellow and white with the same consistency with a yuzu mousse, pumpkin seeds, squash and caramelized pumpkin seed oil.
declination and orange vegetables Automme . All served with a Riesling Cuvee des Comtes Eguisheim Leon Beyer Alsace 2003 the pretty golden color.
Let's do a little focus on this variation of orange vegetables:
- In the Horn of carrot are: a tartare of mackerel (chives, shallot and olive oil) double cream and julienne carrots tart
- In the plate: pumpkin noodles assaissonnée (sesame oil and soy sauce), s Alade shells and knives with Pak Soi onions spring onion and fresh wasabi confit, scallops and cashew nuts, jelly cashew and ponzu, coriander cress.
- In the glass: a sublime yoghurt mousse, lemon oil and sweet potato sorbet where I had a very big favorite.
It would not be without Arnsbourg into the famous oyster graduation this time served with quince gel, foam, lime and grapefruit sorbet . It is divine as usual. gel quince is particularly interesting.
Change of wine for the next course: a Domaine Leflaive Mâcon-Verzé (Puligny-Montrachet), a fine and elegant white wine with hints of citrus and white flowers but also with a slight nose of truffles that I enjoyed . He went particularly well with the emulsion potatoes and truffles we were served afterwards.
Suite entries with a cutting-Jacques scallops with salt citrus, grapes and cheese pearls, seaweed Kombu, currants and borage sea. We find often Arnsbourg this type of dish: Prawn cuts or Saint-Jacques accompanied by a fruit and cheese (we had already had beads with prawns feta). A very refreshing, tasted a Vouvray Pouilly Fume 2006 in Fournier (a 100% Sauvignon, with excellent fish and seafood).
First fish dish, a dish that will be talked about much: a solette brown butter, vinegar Tansy, artichoke texture gel, Granny Smith. Aesthetically the dish is rich with shades of celadon green, in contrast to the taste I struggled to appreciate: I'm not a big fan of artichokes, and I particularly hate the Tansy after a bad experience at Jean Sulpice.
For the record, Tansy is a hardy plant with yellow flowers. It is a bitter plant, vermifuge (Grass worms) very useful in the garden (just under the plate in my opinion). It is used in cooking especially in the Nordic Countries (influence Moshij Roth, incidentally best chef in the world Gilles Pudlowski, and head to this very Arnsbourg) and some digestive liquors. This dish has aroused a genuine debate and was considered the best dish of the meal by some of my buddies.
For me one of the best dishes was the following: a blue lobster Kaffir, foamed whole milk, sweet parsley root, wasabi and Kombu . Very well balanced acidity with a touch of the Kaffir, and the slight spiciness of the wasabi. We drank a wine to accompany the the Herault area of Chills 2005 Marfee Umbels : It was perfect this wine, a nice discovery.
Before turning to meat, we are served a dish in two stages. First, a variation of vegetables if not forgotten it : onions bell cooked brown celery parmesan, whistles salsify and black truffles, turnips and mushrooms vinegar. Under this basis, we find Canneloni of Jerusalem artichoke with foie gras, served with a broth infused with nutmeg .
Association artichoke and foie gras goose is now standard, but the introduction of this broth flavored with nutmeg added to the length. Very very good.
We walk towards the end of the meal. A small liver is clogged we upsetting the taste buds and provides transit to the meat dish.
We take a red wine to accompany the gun deer , miso chutney, beetroot and red and white gel tangerine . You should eat a bite with all the ingredients together. Miso chutney is perfect. It is a Baux de Provence area Hauvette 2004, a superb wine to the beautiful crimson robe, the nose of cloves and pepper giroffle. We all unanimously enjoyed this wine.
To conclude before dessert, the dish of the restaurant anthology: the cappuccino potato and truffle : a flat exception, the one you must try this restaurant ... always taste too little we have with a St-Emilion, Chateau Dassault 2006, floral but meaty with hints of red fruits like blackcurrants.
We promised not to take cheese but I do not know what happened, there is a general cracking (which some have greatly regretted) on mimolette, Volume Revard and other cheeses. This has led to the opening of new bottles: a white Burgundy vintage Fired Clessé Thevenet 2004 (field of Bongran) . If you want an opinion on this wine please follow the link .
For my part I am booked for the Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Furstentum 2002. I love Riesling with desserts, cheeses and fatty livers. The aromas of rose, jasmine, spice and candied citrus are perfect.
Time is running out we have more than a half hour before sunrise the camp to catch our train.
Prime dessert around Granny, white chocolate, creamy lemon and ice Alma mater (bark that is grater and whose flavor resembles a blend of vanilla and caramel slightly spicy).
Second dessert around the fig sorbet with a thin rod speculos, notes of yuzu and foaming at the Chartreuse yellow . As pretty as well.
The coffee was shipped with the usual sweets, caramels, marshmallow and coconut rum, grapefruit marshmallow, ginger and red fruits and truffle tiles.
For those who had the courage to read all these lines, I wish you all of this experience. Unique in France, this table must be earned and lives as a journey of initiation. I hope Jean-Georges Klein will remain at the helm of this wonderful house but if there's successor, it will cling to this world and this place so enchanting. Alchemist who is not willing.
0 comments:
Post a Comment