Over two years, we had to visit In de Wulf , enticed by reports of Gastroscopes on tour (Lawrence has over 20 visits to her counter I think).
Last year we began our journey of the starred restaurants in Belgium, starting with the North. This year we finally found a niche for us to finally 5 km from the French border in Kobe Desramaults, the dazzling young Flemish conductor.
The scene: in the countryside of Heuvelland between fields ready for plowing, groves and valleys, was a hideout old Flemish farm, the mother of Kobe before selling back the reins to his son gifted in the kitchen. Old bricks, flannels, wood, boxwood, the atmosphere is all Flemish. Comfortable and a rustic rustic chic.
Upon entering, the eye is drawn to the window that allows you to see behind the scenes of the kitchen. The chief and his mates are busy, calm and precise. I like the surroundings: everything is shown, and is already visible in appetite.
On our table, candles, butter and a surprising lard are deposited. The bread is remarkable. No fuss, a simple bread. All dishes are served by cooks and Kobe in person, it is surprising and enjoyable for us.
festivities begin with a glass of champagne to whet your appetite.
Starts ballet amuse-bouche:
- head and pressed mimolette mini-sandwich
- Crisp pork and mayonnaise Honey
- Beetroot and yogurt cone as presented to the Arnsbourg
- Fritter Onion 's a little greasy and not very interesting
- pickled celeriac on a biscuit
- Mackerel and potato
I really appreciate the raw mackerel associated with the apple, bite very cool. For the rest it was surprisingly good but still not fully anchored in the soil surrounding home.
To accompany the meal, only two wines. We were very wise. A
Rully Premier Cru La Pucelle for the first part of the meal. A Burgundy fruity, round and fat that will agree to our dishes. A bar
North Sea thought, celery green, purslane and potatoes. A first landscape which I immediately recall Oud Sluis (Kobe worked with Sergio Hermann). A freshness in the mouth with incredible purslane in dry ice sheet. As pretty as well.
To watch: the Grevelingen oysters poached in a little milk, rib cabbage and mustard seeds . Definitely for someone who does not like oysters, here are 4 in my plate. Cooked I confess they are perfect with this cabbage which has been in the habit of eating the green that the rib. Very nice combination with the crispy mustard accompaniment.
It connects quickly cuttlefish with the North Sea, ash and chard stems . Another beautiful picture in black and white. Chard stem almost burned enhances the cuttlefish quite bland. Superb. The finished dish will look like a relief.
Then my favorite dish of the meal: The chard with shells Saint-Jacques, cereals (millet, buckwheat, oatmeal) served with a juice shell. I loved this stuffing crunchy cereal. Union of earth and sea shells with simply poached in the juices shell.
Change of wine. We take a Donnhoff Riesling, German wine more tart than the previous wine.
Our beloved chefs come to serve us a dish of C rabe of the North Sea, served with Potatoes "rose of France, buttermilk and Damse Mokke (a local cheese). We went a little off this dish, cheese strong enough completely masked the delicate crab meat.
A fish dish: a hearth along with Brussels sprouts, capers and juice, elderberry edges. An accompanying horseradish emulsion. Bright flavors around a fish traditionally fairly bland.
Photo Olipat A magnificent Flat 9 tubers Heuvelland served with an egg yolk and juice of roasted chicken. Alliance Ground perfectly. Some vegetables are steamed, with English or just roasted in other chips. Very nice plate with colors of undergrowth in the fall and nice work on the vegetables.
Finally savory dishes, a pork loin served in salt crust with red onion and black pudding . Meat is an incredible tenderness. She cooked crust for 30 minutes at 230 ° C. It is then 3 hours before being annealed. The dish is extremely simple: meat and blood of the pig simply accompanied by caramelized onions and a creamy onion smoke.
Note: the dishes were served one after the other in perfect rhythm. The plates can appreciate what we used (a few bites), but without being heavy. Many assembly and short cooking that allow precisely this timing.
3 desserts to follow the titles that most synthetic:
Pumpkin : Pumpkin Ice , espuma pumpkin juice, whey, nuts and caramel. Amazing, a touch of acidity with whey, crunchy nuts and the sweetness of pumpkin.
Apple Pie: praline and candied apple ice. Unstructured, virtualized, it left me a little insensitive.
Sapin, buttermilk and dill: A dessert incredible audacity, also quite virtual (ice, dry ice) but ends the meal perfectly, leaving the palate flavors of vegetable and non- sugar as often during meals. Like a sweet sap of pine without sugar.
Photo Olipat With coffee and pastries (a marvel of chocolate caramel with smoked hay) We chat a bit with Kobe. A simple boy, child, surprised at his success. We're talking about John C (a friend) that we have enjoyed. His desserts are not unlike what we had tasted in C John (in a more sweet and savory Ghent).
Photo Olipat Throughout the meal, we went crescendo and one discovery. Kobe changes a big part of the card every month based on new products mature. It is of extreme creativity, forceful while remaining in its soil. He plays on the firings, the textures with a taste for the combination of sea and land. A Michelin star but shines forth like a double star without context.
Some rooms are available (all Saturdays are booked until mid-July). The tasting menu without wine is 120 euros, with the combination of food and wine at 160 euros. Cheaper lunch menu on weekdays.
I think we're going to go again to sample the table of the summer with Kobe.
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